The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Guatemala Travel

Guatemala is the country that surprised me most in Central America. It’s gained serious attention in the travel world recently, and for good reason. Where else can you hike up an erupting volcano, swim in bright turquoise pools deep in the jungle, and explore caves using candles all in one trip? It’s packed with unique experiences you won’t find anywhere else. I spent a few weeks here, and it quickly became one of my favorite countries. I’ll definitely be going back.

This guide is perfect if you’re planning your first visit to Guatemala and want to know where to go, how long to stay, and what not to miss. I’ll walk you through the most popular routes, with everything you need to know along the way.

When to Visit Guatemala

Guatemala is a year-round destination, but your experience can vary a lot depending on the season. The dry season runs from November to April, and this is generally the best time to visit, especially for hiking, volcano treks, and beach days. The weather is warm and sunny, and visibility is usually great if you’re hoping to catch those epic views from Acatenango or Lake Atitlán.

The rainy season is from May to October, but don’t write it off completely. Mornings are often clear, with rain in the afternoons or evenings. Everything is lush and green, and there are fewer tourists. It’s still a good time to travel, especially if you’re not on a tight schedule or don’t mind the occasional storm. Just keep in mind that heavy rains can sometimes cause landslides or delays in mountain regions.

If you’re planning a trip around Easter, beware of Semana Santa (Holy Week), make sure to book ahead. It’s one of the most popular (and crowded) times to visit the country. We made this mistake once and were left scrambling for last-minute accommodation.

A Brief History of Guatemala

Guatemala has one of the most fascinating and layered histories in the Americas. Long before the arrival of the Spanish, it was the heart of the ancient Maya civilization. For centuries, powerful city-states like Tikal and El Mirador dominated the region, building massive temples, developing complex calendars, and trading across Mesoamerica. Even after the so-called “collapse” of many major Maya cities, millions of Maya people continued to live in what is now Guatemala.

In 1524, the Spanish arrived and quickly conquered the region, led by Pedro de Alvarado. This began nearly three centuries of colonial rule, during which indigenous populations were forcibly converted, exploited for labor, and pushed off their lands. Guatemala gained independence from Spain in 1821, but the post-colonial period was marked by instability, foreign intervention, and deep inequality.

The 20th century brought further turmoil. After a CIA-backed coup in 1954 overthrew a democratically elected president, Guatemala entered a long period of military rule and civil war. From 1960 to 1996, a brutal conflict left over 200,000 dead or missing, most of them Indigenous civilians. Today, the country is still healing from that violence, but it has also emerged as a vibrant, proud nation with an incredibly rich cultural heritage. You can still feel the influence of the Maya in everything from language to textiles to community traditions.

Getting to Guatemala

Guatemala shares borders with 4 countries – Mexico, Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador. This means people come and go from every direction. All ofthese border crossings can be reached relatively easily via public transport. The other option is, of course, flying in. In that case, you will more than likely start in the main city and capital, Guatemala City. You can adjust your itinerary as you see fit.

Guatemala for First-Timers: Visa, SIM, ATMs, and More

Visa

Most travelers don’t need a visa to enter Guatemala. You’ll get 90 days on arrival if you’re from most Western countries. However, it is part of the CA4 countries (along with El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua), so if you plan to visit the others, be aware that it is 90 days total between them. It’s always best to check visa requirements before visiting, as they can change.

Internet

SIM Card: Tigo and Claro are the two main options. Both have cheap tourist packages and decent coverage, although reception can be spotty in remote areas like Lanquín and El Paredón.

Money & ATMs

Guatemala runs on the Guatemalan Quetzal (GTQ). Card payments are accepted in some hotels and restaurants in bigger towns, but cash is still king, especially in rural areas. There are plenty of ATMs, but none of them are completely free. BI used to offer free withdrawals for international cards, but that’s no longer the case. If you want to lower your total fees, I recommend withdrawing larger amounts when you find an ATM with a high limit.

Guatemala by Desination: What to Expect

Guatemala City (0 Nights)

Let’s be honest, you probably don’t need to spend much time here. If you’re flying in or out of the country, you’ll likely pass through the capital, but most travelers move on quickly. It’s not the safest or most exciting place, and the rest of the country has much more to offer. If you do end up here, you can check out places like the Cathedral, the National Palace, the Central Market, the National Theater, and the Plaza de la Constitución. But if you’re in the country for 2 weeks or less, I’d head straight from the airport to the town of Antigua, which is less than an hour away.

Flores & Tikal (3-4 Nights)

This small island town sits on Lake Petén Itzá and has a chilled-out vibe that makes it a great place to unwind. But the real reason to come here is Tikal.

Getting There

If you’re arriving from Belize, Flores is a logical first stop. From there, you can take a shuttle (recommended), taxi, or a series of chicken buses over to the town of Lanquin to visit Semuc Champey. Regardless, it will take you a whole day of travel. It’s quite far North in the country, and it’s also possible to fly in/out. There is also an overnight bus that runs to/from Guatemala City.

Tikal is one of the most impressive Mayan ruins in Latin America and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Some people even argue it’s more impressive than Chichen Itza, one of the 7 Wonders, not too far away. You can visit as a day trip, or if you’re up for an adventure, camp out in the jungle the night before. There are hammocks and tents near the park that let you sleep under the stars and beat the crowds at sunrise. I highly recommend this. Book your entrance ticket in advance if you’re going for sunrise, as those slots can sell out.

Besides Tikal, there are a few good lake spots nearby to swim, kayak, or relax. The town of Flores is also quite unique as the main tourist area is on a tiny island, connected by a bridge.

El Mirador Trek

If you’re into trekking and ancient history, consider doing the El Mirador trek from Flores. El Mirador is an enormous and remote Mayan city buried deep in the jungle near the Guatemalan–Mexican border. It’s older than Tikal and features the largest pyramid (by volume) in the entire Maya world. The only way to get there is by doing a multi-day trek, usually five days round trip, or six if you want to add extra ruins. It’s a raw, back-to-basics kind of experience, with no showers, basic food, and lots of mud, but totally worth it if you want to experience the jungle and archaeology without crowds.

There’s also a more expensive helicopter option, but hiking in makes the experience way more rewarding. Though it is possible to do it without a guide, this is not recommended as it is deep in the jungle, where anything can happen.

Lanquín & Semuc Champey (2 nights)

Reaching San Agustín Lanquín is quite complicated with chicken buses, so a tourist shuttle from Antigua or Flores is your best bet. It’s only 250 kilometers, but the journey will take you most of the day. Lanquín itself doesn’t have much to see, but it’s the gateway to Semuc Champey. Once you arrive, your accommodation will likely have a pick-up service waiting for you, especially if you are staying closer to Semuc Champey. You’ll start feeling the adventure immediately. The mode of transport is a pickup truck with a large horizontal bar down the middle where tourists stand in the back, squished together like cattle.

All the local hotels and hostels offer the same full-day tour, which includes the famous pools, an epic candle-lit cave walk, a river float, and a short hike. If you’re trying to save money, it’s possible to visit Semuc Champey independently, but the problem will be getting to the park. Some of the accommodation, such as Greengo’s Hotel, is right by the park, but others are many kilometers away. The town is about 10. It’s a rough road with few cars, but it is possible to hitchhike.

I stayed at Zephyr Lodge, which is one of the most scenic hostels I’ve seen. It’s not the cheapest, but it has incredible views and a lively atmosphere. Greengo’s is a good mid-range alternative and closer to the park entrance. Two nights is plenty, one before and one after visiting the park, unless you want a chill day to enjoy the hostel or go tubing or rafting nearby.

Quetzaltenango (3-4 nights)

If you’re into hiking and want a more local, off-the-beaten-path vibe, consider adding Quetzaltenango (also known as Xela) to your itinerary for 3 to 4 nights. It’s Guatemala’s second-largest city but sees far fewer tourists than places like Antigua or Lake Atitlán. What makes Xela special is its location. It’s surrounded by some of the country’s best volcano hikes. If you’re coming down from Mexico, this will likely be your first stop.

You can summit Volcán Santa María, a tough full-day hike with views over the smoking crater of Santiaguito, one of the most active volcanoes in Central America. If you’re lucky, you’ll see it erupting while you’re looking down from above — it’s wild. Volcán Zunil is another challenging but quieter trek with panoramic views and even some hot springs nearby. For something easier but still magical, visit Laguna Chicabal, a crater lake sacred to the local Maya community, often shrouded in mist and surrounded by altars.

Xela has a cool, lived-in feel and is also a hub for Spanish schools and volunteering, so it’s a good place to slow down if you want to spend longer. But even a few days here is enough to tick off some serious volcanoes.

Chichicastenango (1 night)

If you’re looking to dive deeper into Guatemala’s culture, this is the place. Chichicastenango is a traditional Mayan town with one of the largest and most colorful markets in all of Central America. The best days to visit are Thursday and Sunday when the market is at its busiest. You can visit as a day trip from Antigua or Lake Atitlán, but spending one night makes the trip easier. It’s a great chance to take a chicken bus and see a more authentic side of the country.

Lake Atitlán (4–5 nights)

Just a short trip from Antigua or Chichicastenango, Lake Atitlán is one of Guatemala’s most famous destinations. Surrounded by volcanoes and dotted with small towns, the lake is full of personality. It’s a place where you can come for a weekend or spend a whole month and wonder where the time went.

Panajachel is the main transport hub, which you can reach via chicken buses, tourist shuttles, or even Uber. But don’t stay here, it’s an ugly town with a pier, which is where you want to go. I recommend staying in one of the smaller villages. You can hop between towns by boat. Each one has a different vibe:

• San Pedro is the backpacker hotspot, with bars, parties, and is the base for hiking up the San Pedro Volcano. It’s the biggest one of the towns.
• San Marcos is all about yoga, small markets, and vegan cafés. It has a laid-back, hippie vibe. It’s also got a cool 12m high jumping platform.
• Santa Cruz is a tiny town, but it has a famous hostel called Free Cerveza. I recommend doing the walk over to Jaibalito.

I recommend staying in different towns, depending on the vibe you are after. There are endless activities, from hiking, swimming, or even scuba diving in the lake! It’s no wonder it’s such a popular place for backpackers to settle down for a bit and take Spanish classes.

Antigua & Acatenango (4-5 nights)

Antigua is one of Guatemala’s most beautiful and popular towns. Depending on your route, you may end up passing through here a couple of times, but that’s not a problem! It’s a colorful colonial town surrounded by volcanoes and packed with cafes, bars, and photo spots. It’s also much safer than Guatemala City and is often used as a base for digital nomads or long-term travelers.

The reason most backpackers come here is the Acatenango hike. This two-day hike is one of the most unforgettable experiences in Central America Latin America. On day one, you hike up Acatenango and spend the night near the summit, with views of the active Fuego volcano erupting every 30 minutes. You can also opt for an extra hike to get closer to Fuego in the afternoon.

On day two, you wake up before dawn to catch sunrise from the summit. It’s cold, intense, and completely worth it. I did the hike with Tropicana Hostel and had a great experience. The price included food, transport, and gear. There are many other agencies offering similar tours. It’s always best to check if Fuego has been active recently before committing to the hike, though the views will be great regardless.

Besides Acatenango and hanging out in Antigua, there are several other short trips you can take. You can visit Pacaya Volcano for a shorter trip and even try pizza cooked over volcanic heat. There’s a Lord of the Rings-themed amusement park, Hobbitenango, which is not too far away. You can also take a day trip to Chichicastenango, though it may be better to stay a night.

El Paredón (3-4 nights)

This small surf town is the perfect place to wrap up your Guatemala adventure. Located on the Pacific Coast, El Paredón is relaxed, friendly, and warm year-round. The black sand beaches are beautiful, but be aware of strong rip currents when swimming. This is one of the safest places in the country and a great spot to learn how to surf. There are several surf schools offering cheap lessons for beginners. Once again, this is a place where you can visit for a couple of days, or end up losing track of time and staying weeks. El Paredón is a great place to wind down after an action-packed trip through the country.

The main hostels are Mellow, Cocori, and Driftwood, all offering good vibes and beachfront access.

Getting Around Guatemala

Guatemala is a relatively small country, but travel can still be slow depending on where you’re going. There aren’t many domestic flights, and even then, they’re expensive and limited to major cities like Flores and Guatemala City. Uber is available in major places like Guatemala City and Antigua, but you usually can’t take them for long distances. This leaves you with two main options: tourist shuttles and chicken buses.

Tourist shuttles are the easiest and most popular way to get between destinations like Antigua, Lake Atitlán, Lanquín (Semuc Champey), and Flores. They’re shared minivans that you can book through your accommodation or a local agency. Prices are affordable by Western standards and way more comfortable than the local alternative, but they still aren’t luxurious, and some routes (like the one to Lanquín) are rough.

Then there are chicken buses — colorful, chaotic, and loud American school buses that have been repurposed and re-painted with religious slogans, wild designs, and chrome horns. They’re the lifeblood of local transport in Guatemala and Central America. They’re super cheap, usually costing just a few quetzales, and they go just about everywhere. That said, they’re not for everyone. They’re hot, crowded, and fast, with zero personal space and loud reggaeton blasting the whole way.

The hard part is that there’s no official schedule; locals just know where and when they leave. But if you ask around, someone will point you in the right direction. If you’re up for the adventure (and don’t mind a bit of chaos), trying at least one chicken bus ride is a must. Just keep an eye on your valuables and avoid traveling on them at night.

Guatemalan Food You Have to Try

• Pepián – A rich, spicy stew made with roasted seeds, tomatoes, and meat, considered one of Guatemala’s national dishes.
• Guatemalan Coffee – Grown in the highlands, it’s known for its rich, smooth flavor and is a must-try for any coffee lover.
• Tamales – Made with corn dough and various fillings, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed, different from Mexican tamales.
• Chiles Rellenos – Peppers stuffed with meat and vegetables, dipped in egg batter, fried, and served with tomato sauce.
• Elotes Locos – Corn on the cob slathered with mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard, cheese, and chili powder, sold as street food.
• Kak’ik – A traditional Mayan turkey soup with a deep red broth and fragrant native spices, especially common in Cobán.
• Atol de Elote – A warm, sweet corn drink made from fresh corn, milk, sugar, and cinnamon, perfect on a cool evening.
• Rellenitos – Sweet plantain balls stuffed with refried black beans and fried, often dusted with sugar.

Final Thoughts

Guatemala is one of the most underrated countries in Latin America. It has everything from epic adventures to chill lake towns, colorful markets, and fascinating culture. If you’re planning to backpack Central America, make sure you don’t skip it.

With a little planning and the route above, you can experience the best of what Guatemala has to offer in just a few weeks. And trust me, you’ll be dreaming of coming back before you even leave.