The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Laos Travel

Laos might be one of Southeast Asia’s most underrated destinations. Sandwiched between Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, China, and Myanmar, it offers a slower pace of life, stunning landscapes, and some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet. From lazy days drifting down the Mekong to trekking in the misty mountains, Laos feels less developed than its neighbors, which is exactly why many travelers fall in love with it. It might not be a country that I go back to over and over, but it’s definitely one that’s worth a solid trip (or two).

When to Visit Laos

The best time to visit is during the dry season from November to April, when temperatures are cooler and there’s little rain. May to October is the wet season, bringing lush landscapes but also muddy roads and occasional flooding. If you plan to explore the countryside, the dry season makes getting around much easier. Take note of events like the Chinese New Year (prices skyrocketed in Luang Prabang when we arrived), as well as Pi Mai (Lao New Year), which happens in April at the same time as Songkran.

Brief History of Laos

Laos has a long history influenced by its position along the Mekong River. Once part of the powerful Lan Xang Kingdom in the 14th century, it later came under French colonial rule (and you can still see traces today) before gaining independence in 1953. The Vietnam War era brought heavy bombing, making it known as the most bombed country in the world, per capita. To this day, the county is contaminated by landmines and other explosive remnants of war, and there are several museums about it. In recent years, tourism has been growing, but Laos has retained its laid-back charm.

Getting to Laos

If you’re flying in, you’re likely to start in Vientiane or Luang Prabang. Most people will be coming in from the neighboring countries, and there are land borders in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, and China. If you’re coming from Cambodia or Vietnam, you will likely take a bus. From China, a train. But the most exciting way to enter Laos is via a slow boat down the Mekong from the Thai border down to Luang Prabang.

Laos for First-Timers: Visa, SIM, ATMs, and More

Visa

Most nationalities can get a visa on arrival at major airports and land borders for around $40 USD, valid for 30 days. At the borer, you must pay this fee in cash. It’s important to note that they only accept new, clean banknotes; they may not accept older or damaged notes. E-visas are also available for certain entry points. You can extend the visa once for an additional 30 days, and costs approximately 640,000 LAK (about $30 USD)

You must also provide two recent passport-sized photographs (4×6 cm), with a white background. In towns near the border, such as Chiang Rai, this can be done very easily. If you arrive without the photos, there may be an additional fee for having your passport photo scanned at the border.

Internet

The first option is to buy a local SIM card at the airport or a phone shop in town. Unitel and Lao Telecom are the most reliable. However, if you want to be connected for the first days on the slowboat or as soon as you enter the country, an eSIM from Saily is a convenient alternative.

Money & ATMs

The local currency is the Lao Kip (LAK). ATMs are widely available in cities but can be scarce in rural areas, so always carry cash. Some ATMs charge high fees, so withdrawing larger amounts at once can save money. The best option I found was taking out 2M (~$90) at a time with a fee of 30k (<$1.50).

When I crossed the border from Thailand to Laos, the exchange rate was 1 THB = 570 LAK; however, they traded it at 1 THB = 600 LAK. This means I got better than the official rate! If you have any extra Thai Baht when leaving Thailand, don’t worry, or even bring it on purpose!

Laos By Destination: What to Expect

I will be breaking down the route in sequential order for those crossing in from Thailand and heading West, which is the most popular route.

The Gibbon Experience (2 Nights)

Located in the Bokeo Nature Reserve near Houayxay, the Gibbon Experience is an unforgettable eco-adventure. You’ll zipline through the treetops, trek in dense jungle, and even spend the night in one of the world’s highest treehouses. Early mornings sometimes bring the haunting calls of black crested gibbons, making it a true once-in-a-lifetime wildlife encounter. However, sleeping up in treehouses comes at a high pricetag (about $350) for backpackers traveling on a budget, not to mention needing to be booked several weeks in advance.

Houayxay – Slow Boat (2 Nights)

One of the most iconic ways to enter Laos from Thailand is by taking the two-day slow boat from Houayxay to Luang Prabang. You’ll probably stay your first night at a guesthouse in Houayxay before embarking early the next morning. This journey drifts down the Mekong River past remote villages, jungle-covered hills, and golden sunsets. The overnight stop in Pakbeng breaks up the trip, giving you a taste of small-town Laos. It’s not luxurious (you are sitting on ripped-out car seats), but it’s the perfect way to slow down and ease into the country’s relaxed pace.

However, don’t expect to be the only person with this idea, as there are usually 100+ tourists on it every day with a few locals sprinkled in between. There have been rumours that this boat will stop running next year. Alternatively, you can take an overnight bus straight to Luang Prabang.

Luang Namtha (2 Nights)

One of the places more off the beaten path up in the far north, Luang Namtha is the gateway to trekking in Nam Ha National Protected Area. It’s a fantastic destination for eco-tourism, offering multi-day hikes with homestays in ethnic minority villages. You can also try kayaking along the Nam Tha River, cycling through rice paddies, or exploring the surrounding countryside. However, if you take the slow boat to Luang Prabang, it’s quite a bit of backtracking to get here.

Luang Prabang (3 Nights)

A UNESCO World Heritage city and one of Southeast Asia’s most charming towns, Luang Prabang blends French colonial architecture with Buddhist temples. Highlights include the cascading Kuang Si Falls, the night market full of local crafts, and the daily alms-giving ceremony with monks at sunrise. Its relaxed cafés and river views make it easy to linger here for days. There’s a cool free UXO museum that not many people know about. There isn’t much in terms of nightlife, but backpackers always end up at the bowling alley, which is the only place that stays open late at night.

Nong Khiaw (4 Nights)

Dramatic limestone cliffs and lush jungle surround this small riverside town north of Luang Prabang. It’s a base for hiking to mountain viewpoints such as Pha Deng or Pha Khew for sunrise or sunset, kayaking down the Nam Ou River, and exploring remote villages. The slower pace and stunning landscapes make Nong Khiaw feel far removed from busier tourist spots. I highly recommend making your way up to Muang Ngoy and spending a night there. Then, take a ferry or even a tube back down the river.

Vang Vieng (4 Nights)

Infamous for its wild backpacker parties, Vang Vieng is starting to reinvent itself as an adventure hub. Surrounded by karst mountains and caves, it’s perfect for hot air ballooning, tubing on the Nam Song River, or hiking to panoramic viewpoints. It’s now balanced with outdoor activities and boutique guesthouses.

* WARNING* Many hostels offer free alcohol every night. In 2024, six tourists died of methanol poisoning, so it’s highly recommended not to participate.

Vientiane (0 Nights)

The capital of Laos is often described as one of the sleepiest in the world. Highlights include the golden stupa of Pha That Luang, the riverside promenade along the Mekong, and French-style cafés. The highlight for me was the museum about prostethics from bombing related accidents. There is really not a lot to see or do here. I say one day or even half a day is enough, just to break up the journey.

The South

A large percentage of backpackers end their Laos journey after spending about two weeks in the North. They head from Vientiane on a grusomely long bus ride towards Vietnam. But they have no idea that they’re about to miss out on the best part of the country in my opinion, the south.

Thakhek (4 Nights)

Best known for the Thakhek Loop, this multi-day motorbike route takes you through caves, waterfalls, and limestone landscapes. The route passes rural villages and offers plenty of chances to explore off the beaten track. For those not into biking, the caves near town are still worth a visit. Some of the other locations are quite far away and would be difficult to visit on a day trip.

I also met people who did the whole loop in a pickup truck. It’s not as popular as bike loops such as the Ha Giang Loop in Vietnam. That means there aren’t companies that offer easy riders (people to drive you). You’ll have to drive yourself, or find a friend to hop on the back of. However, money always talks, and I’m sure it wouldn’t be too difficult to convince a local to take you for a few days for the right price.

Pakse (5 Nights)

The town of Pakse is not too exciting. However, it’s the jumping-off point for the Bolaven Plateau. It’s a highland area famous for coffee plantations and waterfalls like Tad Fane and Tad Yuang. You can explore endless hidden waterfalls. It’s one of my favourite regions for this in the world. Though it’s possible to do day trips to some of the closer waterfalls, I highly recommend doing a second motorbike loop! It’s best done in 3 or 4 days, staying in guesthouses in small villages along the way. If you stay in Pakse, you can also visit Vat Phou, a UNESCO site. It contains remains of an ancient Hindu temple complex, later used as a Buddhist shrine.

Don Det (3 Nights)

After 8 days of motorbike loops, there is no better place than an island. But Laos is landlocked? Luckily, it’s host to one of the biggest river systems in the world, the Mekong. Which means not only does it have islands, it’s got 4,000 of them. At least that’s what they call it (Si Phan Don). One of the main islands in the 4,000 Islands region, Don Det is all about hammock time and river views. You can cycle around the island, watch sunsets over the Mekong, and even take boat trips to spot rare river dolphins. Life here moves slowly, exactly how Laos should be enjoyed.

Getting Around Laos

Flights

There are few domestic flights and they are not very practical for this small country. Lao Airlines and Lao Skyway connect major cities like Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Pakse, and Oudomxay, but I can’t recommend this as the best mode of transport.

High-Speed Train

Since 2021, the Laos–China Railway has revolutionized travel in the country; however, the contrast between very poor towns and the futuristic train stations is eerie. The high-speed train runs from Boten (near the China border) through Luang Namtha, Luang Prabang, and Vientiane, making travel between the north and center much faster.

Some important things to keep in mind:

• Tickets sell out quickly during peak times, so it’s best to book a day or two ahead.
• There is high security at the train stations, they make you throw out any bottles over 100mL, knives, etc
• Despite being in a poor third-world country, the train systems are built by China. So they are very modern, efficient, and of course, more expensive

Buses

Buses and minivans are the backbone of Laos travel. Sometimes you can book them directly through 12GoAsia, but other times you’ll have to find a tourism agency. They can be slow and bumpy, but they’re the most affordable way to get around, or in many cases, the only way. The buses may arrive super late or super early, and it’s common for them to have breakdowns along the way.

Overnight buses are common for longer routes. Bus stations are often far out of the center of the cities, which makes it inconvenient to buy tickets at the cheapest price. This means you’ll likely have to spend a bit extra at the tourist shops in town. However, these tickets usually include a transfer to the bus station as well.

The overnight buses are usually bed style, though they are made for Lao-sized people (the average height is 155cm ~ 5ft 1). When there are two people to a bed (which you will likely have to share with a stranger), it can get quite tight. My overnight bus from Vientiane to Tahkek was supposed to arrive at 4 AM, and right away, we had a breakdown with a 1-hour delay. Even still, the bus driver managed to cut off two hours, and we arrived at 3 AM instead.

Local Transport

Within towns, tuk-tuks (which in Laos are big pickup trucks that fit a dozen people in the back), bicycles, and motorbike rentals are common. Whenever renting a motorbike, more than likely, they will insist on keeping your passport as a deposit, which is not ideal, unlike cash deposits in other Southeast Asian countries. Roads can be rough, especially in rural areas, so extra caution is needed if riding a motorbike.

In Summary

With its slow pace, friendly locals, and mix of adventure and relaxation, Laos rewards travelers who take their time. A 30-day visa is the perfect amount to explore the country without rushing, from drifting down the Mekong on the slow boat to hiking in remote northern jungles, from the charm of Luang Prabang to the quiet sunsets in Don Det. The variety of landscapes, cultural experiences, and outdoor activities means you can balance busy days with plenty of downtime. Laos isn’t a country to “tick off” in between Thailand and Vietnam — it’s one to sink into, letting each place and moment unfold naturally. By the end of your month, you’ll likely wish you had stayed even longer.