I Found Brazil’s Wildest Island in the Atlantic Ocean
One of the dream destinations for Brazilians, Fernando de Noronha, somehow slips under the radar of most international travelers. Sitting a few hundred kilometers off the coast of mainland South America, it’s a volcanic island packed with marine life. I call it the Galápagos of Brazil, but with only one inhabited island and one airport, it’s even more exclusive. Most people hesitate to visit because of the cost, but in this post, I’ll show you how to visit on a backpacker’s budget, or spend a little more, if that’s your style.
Logistics
Getting There
Your two biggest expenses will be the flight and how long you choose to stay. Unless you’re sailing or hitching a ride on a cargo ship, flying from Brazil is the only real option. The upside? Visitor numbers are controlled, so it’s never overcrowded, and the natural environment is better preserved.
You can fly directly from Natal, Fortaleza, or Recife. The distances are similar, and the flights take about 1.5 to 2 hours. Just remember, Noronha is in a different time zone, so you’ll lose an hour on the way there and gain it back when you leave. Prices are usually lowest from Recife, but it’s more about the season than the city.
When to Visit
The weather stays pretty steady throughout the year, around 25°C (77°F) with ocean temps near 28°C (82°F). The dry season runs from August to January, which is the best time to visit. March to May sees the most rain, especially in April.
Environmental Fee
Once you’re on the island, you’ll need to pay a daily environmental preservation fee. It’s R$92.89 per day (about $18 USD), and this applies to everyone, foreigner or Brazilian. You can pay online ahead of time, but the site doesn’t always work properly. I just paid at the airport when I landed. Since this fee is charged daily, it’s worth thinking carefully about how long you want to stay. Most people choose somewhere between 3 and 7 days.
Money
Wifi is slow, and mobile service is spotty. Some moments it works well, other times it barely works at all. Don’t expect video calls or fast downloads, just take it as a break from being online.
Internet
You’ll want some cash, but you can get by mostly using cards. I only needed cash for the bus. That said, there are limited ATMs, and some places won’t take cards, so it’s smart to bring a bit of cash just in case.
Activities
National Park
Roughly 70% of the island is protected by a national marine park. To access certain areas, you’ll need to pay for a park pass. It’s R$358 (about $72 USD) and valid for 10 days. Brazilians get 50% off.
That pass gives you access to spots like Praia do Sueste, Praia do Leão, the Dolphin Viewpoint, the top viewpoint of Baía dos Porcos, and of course, the iconic Praia do Sancho. These are some of the most stunning places on the island.
There are also five hikes inside the national park. You’ll need to book those at the Visitors Centre (after 3:30 PM at the Praia Boldró entrance). I tried on my first day and everything was already booked for the entire week. Two of the hikes (Capim Açu and Pontinha-Caieiras) require a guide. The other three (Atalaia, Abreu, and Morro São José) don’t, but still need to be reserved in advance.
Free Activities
If you’re on a tighter budget, don’t worry, there are still plenty of free beaches you can visit. Praia do Cachorro, Meio, Conceição, Boldró, Americano, Bode, Cacimba do Padre, and the bottom viewpoint of Baía dos Porcos are all free. You can even walk between many of them during low tide. The port area and Enseada dos Tubarões are also free. Go to the latter at high tide to see dozens of sharks (no swimming allowed).
Other free activities include snorkeling, watching sunsets, and just hanging out at the beach. If you don’t have your own snorkel gear, you can rent one for about R$20 a day (~$4 USD). There’s also a small shark museum near the port that’s free to enter.
A bonus spot is Ponta das Caracas. It’s listed as needing a ticket online, but there’s no one there checking, and it’s absolutely worth visiting. It’s between Praia do Sueste and Praia do Leão and usually empty.
Diving
If you dive, even just a little, Fernando de Noronha is where you want to do it. It’s hands-down some of the best diving I’ve ever done. In just two dives, I swam alongside reef sharks, sea turtles, rays, lobsters, giant eels, and schools of colorful fish. The water’s insanely clear, visibility is great, and the island’s marine park protections mean the sea life is thriving. Whether you’re certified or just trying it for the first time, diving here is unforgettable and absolutely worth the splurge.
Transportation
Getting around is easier than you’d think. The island has one main road (BR-363) and a bus that runs the entire length of it, from Sueste Beach to the Port. That includes a stop at the airport. Buses leave every 30 minutes from 5 AM to 10 PM and cost R$5 per ride (~$1 USD). They also go to places like Praia do Boldró, Vila dos Remédios, and Vila do Trinta.
Taxis are available but pricey. Many people rent buggies, which are fun but expensive. Hitchhiking is surprisingly easy and safe. I saw lots of couples with room in the back of their buggies, happy to give rides.
Where to Stay
Budget options are limited, but I found the cheapest hostel I could: Estação Noronha. It’s not in the center, but the bus made it easy to get around. I don’t usually book in advance, but this time I did through Booking.com because I didn’t want to risk everything selling out. I think there was a 5% extra fee for paying by card. The price worked out to R$100 per night (~$20 USD) for a dorm bed.
There aren’t many Couchsurfing hosts on the island, so if you’re hoping for that, just know it’s not a guarantee.
Food
I cooked almost all of my meals to keep costs down. The grocery stores had limited selection and were often out of basic things, but I made it work. I did eat out once at a place that was said to be the cheapest lunch spot, and it still cost R$30 (~$6 USD). Also, the tap water isn’t drinkable. The hostel I stayed at offered unlimited filtered water for R$10 (~2 USD) per day. This is usually included in higher-end accommodation on the island.
Conclusion
Fernando de Noronha really is something special. It’s remote, wild, and peaceful in a way few places are these days. It took some effort and planning, but I was surprised by how much I could do on a tight budget. With the right prep, anyone can experience the magic of this island: crystal-clear water, untouched beaches, sea turtles and sharks just meters away, and a pace of life that makes you forget about time. If you’re already in Brazil and want to visit somewhere most tourists skip, Noronha is absolutely worth it.
